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Practice saying this name: Cserszegi Fuszeres. Once you try it you’ll be saying it a lot. It’s pronounced Chair-say-gy Foo-se-resh and it’s my new under $10 white wine discovery.

We’ve all heard the stories of the great wine growing regions that were virtually unknown and undiscovered only 30 or 40 years ago. Nauseating stories of how ultra-expensive wines from now famous wineries of the region went for chump change. Those days are over; all the great wine growing regions have been discovered, right? Wrong.

Case in point: Hungary. I know what you’re thinking. Hungary is an underdeveloped minor player in the wine world that churns out millions of gallons of cheap plonk every year. Many revered wine regions including the premier appellations in California and Spain had that very same reputation not so long ago and now look at them—my how they’ve grown.

I’ve been sampling Hungarian wines for close to a decade now and have seen the slow and steady improvement in quality over the years. Recently, I finally had a Hungarian wine that knocked me out of my seat and got me excited enough to tell everyone about it. That wine, the 2006 Craftsman Cserszegi Fuszeres (keep practicing your pronunciation) is a dense and luscious white evocative of what some of the top producers from Alsace put out.

If you’re a fan of producers like Zind-Humbrecht, Marcel Deiss, and Trimbach then this is your kind of wine. Even if you’re not a fan you can afford to pick up a bottle to see what the Cserszegi Fuszeres grape is all about. What you’ll discover is a wine with a rich, golden color and a honeyed bouquet of wet stones, rosewater, apricot, nectarine, and a faint hint of that petrol character present in the finest German and Alsatian Rieslings. Take a sip and you’re rewarded with lychee, grapefruit, and orange zest with a bright beam of sweet-tart acidity present through it all. There’s even a little trace of salty minerality hiding behind all that fruit. All of this is then capped off by a super long finish that lasts for 30 seconds or more.

OK, so you’re having fun saying, “Cserszegi Fuszeres” and willing to give it a try. But where did it come from? You have standards and expect to know that a grape comes from respectable parentage before you put a wine made from it to your lips. Well, get used to disappointment. In a world where grapes have pedigrees like prize-winning show dogs Cserszegi Fuszeres is a mutt, a scrapper; a mixed-up grape with a murky past. Most sources say that Cserszegi Fuszeres is a cross between Gewürztraminer and the Hungarian grape Irsai Olivér. Irsai Olivér is in turn a cross between Pozsonyi Fehér (White of Pozsony) and Csabagyöngye (Pearl of Csaba.) And just when I thought the rollercoaster ride was over I found out that Csabagyöngye is a cross between Muscat Ottonel and a grape called Bronnerstraube. Is your head spinning yet? Mine is. But mostly it’s from the glass of this lusty and provocative wine that I just gulped down.

I knew from the first taste that this wine would become one of my standard “house” whites and I’m chomping at the bit to try it with spicy Sichuan cuisine. Search out this wine and you can brag to your friends a few decades from now that you were one of the first in America to discover it, back when it was less than $10 a bottle.

 

 

     
 
 
Craftsman Cserszegi Fuszeres 2006 - Hungary
 
Borisal Liquor & Wine, 468 4th Ave. (10th St.) Park Slope $8.99
Grand Wine & Liquor, 30-05 31st St. (30th Ave.) Astoria $8.99
 
 
     


     
 
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