Practice saying this name: Cserszegi Fuszeres.
Once you try it you’ll be saying it a lot. It’s
pronounced Chair-say-gy Foo-se-resh and it’s
my new under $10 white wine discovery.
We’ve all heard the stories of the great wine
growing regions that were virtually unknown and undiscovered
only 30 or 40 years ago. Nauseating stories of how ultra-expensive
wines from now famous wineries of the region went for
chump change. Those days are over; all the great wine
growing regions have been discovered, right? Wrong.
Case in point: Hungary. I know what you’re thinking.
Hungary is an underdeveloped minor player in the wine
world that churns out millions of gallons of cheap plonk
every year. Many revered wine regions including the
premier appellations in California and Spain had that
very same reputation not so long ago and now look at
them—my how they’ve grown.
I’ve been sampling Hungarian wines for close
to a decade now and have seen the slow and steady improvement
in quality over the years. Recently, I finally had a
Hungarian wine that knocked me out of my seat and got
me excited enough to tell everyone about it. That wine,
the 2006 Craftsman Cserszegi Fuszeres
(keep practicing your pronunciation) is a dense and
luscious white evocative of what some of the top producers
from Alsace put out.
If you’re a fan of producers like Zind-Humbrecht,
Marcel Deiss, and Trimbach then this is your kind of
wine. Even if you’re not a fan you can afford
to pick up a bottle to see what the Cserszegi Fuszeres
grape is all about. What you’ll discover is a
wine with a rich, golden color and a honeyed bouquet
of wet stones, rosewater, apricot, nectarine, and a
faint hint of that petrol character present in the finest
German and Alsatian Rieslings. Take a sip and you’re
rewarded with lychee, grapefruit, and orange zest with
a bright beam of sweet-tart acidity present through
it all. There’s even a little trace of salty minerality
hiding behind all that fruit. All of this is then capped
off by a super long finish that lasts for 30 seconds
or more.
OK, so you’re having fun saying, “Cserszegi
Fuszeres” and willing to give it a try. But where
did it come from? You have standards and expect to know
that a grape comes from respectable parentage before
you put a wine made from it to your lips. Well, get
used to disappointment. In a world where grapes have
pedigrees like prize-winning show dogs Cserszegi Fuszeres
is a mutt, a scrapper; a mixed-up grape with a murky
past. Most sources say that Cserszegi Fuszeres is a
cross between Gewürztraminer and the Hungarian
grape Irsai Olivér. Irsai Olivér is in
turn a cross between Pozsonyi Fehér (White of
Pozsony) and Csabagyöngye (Pearl of Csaba.) And
just when I thought the rollercoaster ride was over
I found out that Csabagyöngye is a cross between
Muscat Ottonel and a grape called Bronnerstraube. Is
your head spinning yet? Mine is. But mostly it’s
from the glass of this lusty and provocative wine that
I just gulped down.
I knew from the first taste that this wine would become
one of my standard “house” whites and I’m
chomping at the bit to try it with spicy Sichuan cuisine.
Search out this wine and you can brag to your friends
a few decades from now that you were one of the first
in America to discover it, back when it was less than
$10 a bottle.