Not all terms that appear on wine labels
have concrete meanings. Some appear on labels due to
the discretion of the winemaker or, in the worst cases,
a particular term can be used merely as a marketing
tool to sway consumer opinion. Several, like Reserve
and Selection, and their many variations like Special
Reserve, Private Reserve, Vintner's Reserve, Proprietor's
Reserve, Special Selection, Estate Selection, and Vintner's
Selection, to name a few, have no legal definition and
therefore can’t always be relied upon to tell
you much about the quality of the wine in the bottle.
Another such term is Old Vines.
French wine producers first started using the term (Vielles
Vignes in French) to designate wines originating from
vines that survived the phylloxera epidemic, which devastated
most vineyards in France in the late 1800s. Many winemakers
do truly believe that 50- to 100-year-old vines produce
better grapes because the roots of these vines penetrate
deep into the earth, picking up minerals and nutrients
from various strata of soil. The amount of grape bunches
vines produce decreases with age, so old vines, with
their lower yields, are thought to produce better grapes
because more minerals, nutrients, and sugars are packed
into fewer grapes making flavors more concentrated.
Old vines are also thought to have achieved equilibrium
with their environments and are not as susceptible to
the effects of drought, disease, or other extreme environmental
anomalies, theoretically producing grapes of consistent
quality from vintage to vintage.
These days you can find wines from all over the globe
with Old Vines displayed proudly on their labels. As
vines in Europe grow older expect to see the term appear
more often on European wines. However, the truth is
that some of the oldest vines in the world are in areas
that are considered the New World. Australia and California
boast some very old vines, and Chile, a country that
has never suffered a phylloxera infestation, is home
to some of the oldest vines in the world. There is no
law however that dictates how old a vine has to be before
wine produced from its fruit can be labeled Old
Vines, so it’s possible—although not
likely—to be duped.
Not all winemakers are convinced that old vines produce
better grapes. Many firmly believe that vines producing
their first crop of fruit at about three or four years
old are responsible for the best wines in the world.
There is certainly some truth to this, but alas a vine
is young only once. Old vines on the other hand seem
to be consistently responsible for better wines than
their middle-aged brethren. When it comes to wines and
vines, older is generally considered to be better. If
only we were so lucky.